Sacred Roads Through the Mountains
Montenegro's Orthodox monasteries are some of the most extraordinary buildings in Europe. Carved into cliff faces, built beside rushing rivers, and hidden in mountain forests, they have survived earthquakes, wars, and centuries of political change. Three monasteries form a natural driving circuit that can be completed in a single day.
The circuit covers about 250 kilometres and takes a full day with stops for visiting each monastery, lunch, and photography. You can start from the coast or from Podgorica. The roads are all paved and manageable in any car, though the approach to Ostrog requires nerve on its narrow switchbacks.
Ostrog Monastery
Ostrog is the most visited pilgrimage site in the Balkans, receiving hundreds of thousands of visitors each year. The upper monastery is literally built into a vertical cliff face at 900 metres above the Zeta valley. Two small churches are embedded in the rock, connected by a narrow staircase carved from the cliff.
The monastery was founded in the 17th century by Saint Basil of Ostrog, whose remains are kept in the upper church. Pilgrims of all faiths visit, and many sleep overnight in the monastery grounds. The atmosphere is unlike anything else in Montenegro.
The access road from the main highway climbs 7 kilometres of steep switchbacks. The road is paved but narrow, with limited passing places. Go early in the morning (before 9am) to avoid the worst of the traffic. There is a large car park at the lower monastery and a smaller one near the upper monastery, but the upper car park fills quickly.
Moraca Monastery
Set beside the Moraca River canyon, this 13th-century monastery contains some of the finest medieval frescoes in the Balkans. The paintings in the main church date from 1252 and depict scenes from the life of the prophet Elijah with vivid colours that have barely faded in 800 years.
The monastery is right on the main road between Podgorica and Kolasin, making it an easy stop on any north-south journey. There is ample parking, a small gift shop, and a spring with drinkable mountain water. The surrounding canyon is spectacular, with the river running emerald green through vertical rock walls.
Cetinje Monastery
In the former royal capital of Montenegro, Cetinje Monastery has been the seat of the Montenegrin Orthodox Church since the 15th century. The monastery's treasury holds several important relics, including what is claimed to be the right hand of John the Baptist and a fragment of the True Cross.
Cetinje itself is worth a stop. The former embassies of the great European powers line the main street, reminders of the time when this small mountain town was an independent kingdom's capital. The drive from the coast takes about 30 minutes via the tunnel road, or an hour via the Kotor serpentine for a much more scenic approach through Kotor.
Suggested Route
This loop starts and ends on the coast. Allow a full day with an early start.
- Start from Podgorica or the coast. Drive to Ostrog first (arrive by 8:30am to beat the crowds).
- From Ostrog, drive north to Moraca Monastery (about 1.5 hours via Podgorica bypass).
- From Moraca, drive south through Podgorica to Cetinje (about 2 hours with a lunch stop).
- Return to the coast via the Cetinje-Budva road (30 minutes) or the Kotor serpentine (1 hour).
Visiting Etiquette
- Dress code: Cover shoulders and knees. Women should bring a scarf for the head at Ostrog. Wraps are sometimes available at the entrance.
- Photography: Photography is allowed in monastery grounds but generally prohibited inside churches. Never use flash near frescoes.
- Noise: Keep voices low inside the churches. These are active places of worship, not museums.
- Hours: Monasteries are open daily, typically 6am to 7pm. Ostrog is busiest on weekends and religious holidays.